Chieftain’s colourful garments: microinvasive analysis of Norwegian Snartemo V textiles

Several microinvasive methods were applied to analyse the fibre materials from the Snartemo V burial from the Migration Period (fifth century CE) in Norway. The morphological parameters of the textile fibres and furs were examined with optical (TLM) and electron microscopy (SEM, SEM-EDX and TEM) and dyes with UHPLC-PDA method. According to TLM and TEM analyses, the Snartemo textiles were spun of very fine wool, that consisted of white and naturally pigmented fibres. The dye analysis revealed colourants referring to dyer’s madder, weld and woad in several textiles. The reddish hue in the warp of the wide geometrically patterned tablet-woven band was interpreted a result of the fading of the natural dark pigmentation of the wool. Respectively, the warp yarns that now appear yellow were interpreted as originally white, undyed wool. In addition, fibres from a bear’s (Ursus arctos) fur and a Mustelidae sp. were identified in the previously unexamined Snartemo materials.